TRAVEL - EUROPE - UNITED KINGDOM - WELLS & CHEDDAR

 

 

Wells and Cheddar

August 24 - August 26, 2002

As we hadn't visited any English towns for a while - this bank holiday seemed like the perfect opportunity to hire a car and go to the countryside.

After a bit of research I found that Wells came highly recommended up there with the likes of Oxford, Cambridge and York. I'd agree to a certain point.

I found a lovely hotel that was also a vineyard - Coxley vineyard, and we certainly enjoyed sampling some of their wine in their fine restaurant. Be warned though, their restaurant is closed on Sunday nights as we found out upon arriving for dinner.

Wells is the oldest and smallest (pop 9500) of England's Cathedral cities. And so of course it had a fantastic Cathedral. Built between 1180 and 1508, there are 356 statues on the west side. Quite similar in style to the Notre Dame. I must admit however, I am getting quite Cathedralled out.

The oldest complete medieval street (from the mid 14th Century) known as Vicar's Close can be found in Wells. It originally housed people from the church. Number 22 has not been modified at all and you could clearly see the medieval features such as pointed top windows and doors. The rest of the street's houses have been slightly modernised which is a shame. Still there is quite an interesting feel to the street. Very atmospheric.

There is also a moated palace that once belonged to the bishop, complete with draw bridge. We could walk around the outside and marvel at the ruins left standing, but were unable to go in as it was closed when we visited.

As we had the car we made the most of it and visited a few places nearby. The first of these being Bristol. Not much to write home about actually - just another large city with all the same shops. We did enjoy watching a friendly pre-season rugby match between the Bristol Shoguns (a premiership side) and an Irish premiership side Ebbw Vale (the w is not a mistake - the just spell things funny over there). This gave us an opportunity to see Agustin Pichot the Argentinean half back in action.

We spent Sunday underground - as if we don't do enough of that in London!! Our trip began at the Wookey Hole caves. These caves were inhabited 50, 000 years ago, and continued to be so up to the 15th century. There are about 26 different chambers but you can visit about 5 - the other involve diving and I wasn't that keen - or qualified to do. My favourite chamber is known as the Witches parlour (there is a legend about the a witch that lived here in dark ages, if you're really keen you can read about that here). The witches parlour is the largest known natural underground dome - there are no columns or pillars supporting it and it looks fantastic. The picture is one I stole off the wookey hole website - shhh don't tell anyone. It was caused by the water rising and forming whirlpools. The other chambers were beautifully lit to show off the colours formed by calcite etc and the amazing wax like flowstone. These look like wax blankets draped over the cave sides. I really enjoyed these caves.

There is also a Victorian Papermill there where they still hand make paper with a wire frame. They use some Victorian machinery to get the fibres into a pulp like state, and a Victorian press to extract the water. The guys demonstrating were so quick, there was a real rhythm to it. The Queen and Tom Cruise buy the paper so it most be good. It is made out of fibres rather than pulp. Because of this the paper last a lot longer than pulp based stuff. In Victorian times they used old rags and cut them up.

To finish off at Wookey hole there was a penny arcade with old arcade games, mirror maze (Thankfully I didn't bump into any mirrors, but I saw some people doing it) and a hall of mirrors - couldn't find any miracle cures for weight loss though in fact most were worse.

Cheddar
After a drive over the Mendip hills - nice scenery, scary roads - we arrived in the fantastic Cheddar gorge. The photo's probably don't do it justice. It is in fact a million year old Ice Age river bed.

Underground again we went to see Cheddar man, Britain's oldest complete skeleton. Thought to be 9000 years old and discovered in 1903. They did DNA testing and found living relatives of the skeleton still in the Cheddar area. Wow! People lived in these caves also, but only 40, 000 years ago this time. These caves seemed a lot more commercial and not as natural as Wookey hole. There were a couple of interesting reflection pools though. You couldn't tell where the rock finished and the water started the pools were so still.

Once above ground again we decided to go even higher and climb Jacobs Ladder, 274 stairs and there wasn't even a view at the top unless you went up the tower on the top - yep more stairs. We gave it and the queue a miss.

We continued down the gorge to the small town and went to a cheese shop - unfortunately the queues were too long for a taste of real cheddar cheese, but I can buy it at Sainsbury's any way so nevermind. Cheddar is also famous for cider and we did try that. Very moorish I thought.

After such a busy day we decided to play tennis. The local courts were in fact the high school, free and empty. A complete turn around from trying to get a court in London. And just for the record it was 6 -1 to...........Gavin of course. Please note the 1 that I got, quite an achievement.

On our way home to London we visited Glastonbury saw the hippies and their abbey ruins. I kept seeing signs to the Tor and had no idea what that was. We discovered it was a hill. Exciting ahh!!! Well it's apparently no ordinary hill. It's visitors often experience inner changes and strange happenings (or is it in fact all the drugs they take while there?). It also the home of the King of Fairies - mmmmm OK! The Celtic tower at the top looked pretty cool anyway. The maze like pattern around the hill reminded us of a Maori pa with all the steps.

We also visited Street - yes no mistake that is the name of the town. And I thought the Irish used strange names. In Street there was a factory village where we purchased a few goods and then continued on our merry way home to London, all the happier for some fresh air, good wine, stale air (the cave stuff) great views, Tracey taking a game off Gavin in tennis and strange hills.

 

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